| SPECIES |
Eastern Bluebird |
Mountain Bluebird |
Western
Bluebird |
Tree Swallow |
| INCUBATION |
12-18 days |
13-14 days |
13-14 days |
13-16 days |
| FLEDGING |
12-19 days |
17-22 days +/- |
18-24 days +/- |
16-24 days |
| ENTRANCE HOLE |
1 1/2" to
1 9/16" |
1 9/16" |
1 1/2" to
1 9/16" |
1 1/2" |
| DISTANCE BETWEEN BOXES* |
125-150 yards |
200-300 yards |
100 yards. 200-300 yards may be better |
25 feet + |
Incubation usually starts the day the last egg is laid. A baby blue's eyes usually open on or about day 8. See timetable and photos showing variations at different ages. Tree Swallow babies are similar.
*NABS recommendations for distance between boxes. Brice Prairie Conservation has had good results spacing boxes 200 yards apart. Boxes can also be paired (typically 5-20 feet apart), and can be closer together if there is something that blocks the view of the other box (like a house.)
MONITORING "KIT"
See Monitoring Nestboxes. A bluebird landlord should be prepared before opening the nestbox to check on a nesting, in order to deal with predators, parasites, wet nests, etc. It's helpful to have the following with you:
- a deep bucket (e.g., cat litter or spackle buckets)
- several plastic bags (one to line the bucket into which to sit the wet or infested nest with the nestlings; one into which to scrape out the nestbox)
- an old egg turner (to lift the nest for examining under it and to scrape out the bottom of the box) - if the center of the egg turner is open space, it is easier to check the bottom of the nest itself
- soft dry grass (in case a replacement nest needs made)
- trimmed, white craft feathers (in case a Tree Swallow nest needs replaced)
- a metal putty knife (to smash wasps if found, and scrape a box clean)
- a bar of high-fat soap (e.g., Ivory soap) or jar of Vaseline (to coat the interior of the roof against wasps)
- a container of antibacterial wipes (until hands can be washed)
In areas prone to mice nesting in boxes, also bring:
- disposable gloves
- a dust mask
- a spray bottle of 10% bleach solution (to spray the mouse nest before removing it, and to disinfect box interior)
BLUEBIRD SONG
- EABL sounds like "Cheer, cheerful charmer" or "chir wi" or "chur lee". When repeated several times, the call resembles the words "truly" and "purity."
- Best recording of EABL on MBS website (should play when link is clicked - may not work in Firefox. May also have to go to Tools and click "play sounds on webpage"). Also see: Quicktime or RealPlayer
- Mountain and Western Bluebird song at Animal Diversity Web
LAWS
The Migratory Bird Treaty Act makes it illegal to disturb a nest or eggs of any native bird without a permit. Permits are seldom granted, even for research. There are exceptions for non-native and exotics such as the House Sparrow (Passer domesticus), European Starling (Sturnus vulgaris)/
Under federal law, House Sparrow nests, eggs, young, and adults may be legally removed or destroyed. State or local laws may vary. Empty House Wren nests (sticks only - no nest cup) can be removed. Do NOT remove Tree Swallow, Tufted Titmouse, or chickadee nests or eggs.
It is also illegal collect native bird eggs or nests without a permit. It is illegal to trap or kill native non-game adult birds without a permit, even if they are harrassing birds in your nestboxes or feeders. In addition, there is an exception in some areas where cowbirds are threatening populations of endangered songbirds.
NEST AND EGG IDENTIFICATION
The two nest identification field guides mentioned above are the best. But, for a quick check this might help:
OTHER NATIVE CAVITY NESTERS
SEE PROBLEM/PREDATOR IDENTIFICATION CHART (Sialis)
All too often, some predator raids a bluebird nestbox. Sometimes we find just an empty nest that had eggs or babies; sometimes there are remains; sometimes destruction. We rarely get to see 'who' the predator was. But sometimes clues are left. Check this chart for hints as to what the predator might have been Problem/Predator ID or Predator Clues.
House Sparrows (or HOSP) are deadly predators of bluebirds and other cavity nesters. House Sparrows will peck eggs, nestlings, and adult bluebirds to death. Do not confuse other song sparrows with House Sparrows - only House Sparrows are a threat. See HOSP photos (for ID), HOSP Management (passive and active control methods), History, Population, and HOSP attacks webpages on this website.
See
HOSP Management for a comprehensive list of passive and active
House Sparrow control methods.
- Larry
Zapotocky Monofilament How to attach monofilament
line to a nestbox. For set-ups with free-swinging strings
of monofilament, use caution to ensure that loose strings
do not swing into the nestbox to tangle on bird feet or get
swallowed by babies.
- Sparrow Spooker -
goes up after first egg is laid. VERY effective.
- Magic Halo - deters
HOSP from bird feeders, suppliers
- Hole reducers -
suppliers. Use smaller than 1.25" to prevent HOSP entry (e.g.,
protect chickadees, titmice, wrens)
- HOSP Trap review by Paula Ziebarth
- HOSP trap suppliers - nestbox and ground traps
- DIY inbox (nestbox) traps used to capture
HOSP attempting to claim/nest in a box
- DIY ground
traps: Some drawings of traps you could build yourself.
The House Wren also preys on bluebird eggs and hatchlings. It is important to understand that of all wrens, only the House Wren is a danger to other cavity nesting birds. House Wrens generally build nests made of twigs - sometimes even on top of a clutch of a different bird's eggs or nestlings. The first step in protecting against House Wrens in bluebird nestboxes is to site the boxes out in the open at least 100 feet away from wooded areas. However, as wrens over-populate their preferred nesting habitats they are known to move out to those open areas and attack bluebird and Tree Swallow habitats. Nestboxes in areas with deciduous trees are usually preferred of chickadees, which also puts them at risk of House Wren attacks. In such instances, maybe - just maybe - a wren guard will be helpful.
Cowbirds do not build their own nests. Instead, they parasitize the nests of other birds by laying their eggs in them. A cowbird egg in a bluebird nest is uncommon, but does occur.
Cowbirds usually toss one egg of the host clutch and lay their egg in its place. Sometimes cowbirds will parasitize the same nest twice. Some host birds will abandon their nests when a cowbird egg shows up in their nest. Many birds raise the cowbird as their own. Sometimes this 'adopted' baby is so big and ravenous compared to the others in the host nest that the other chicks die of starvation. Bluebird landlords can offer mealworms to help host parents cope with the larger cowbird chick. It is illegal to remove cowbird eggs/nestlings without a permit, as they are native birds.
Some reports say a single cowbird female lays between 60-80 eggs each year, others say 11-20. A cowbird egg looks like a House Sparrow egg but is slightly smaller. Bluebird nestlings have a yellow mouth - a cowbird nestling has a deep pink or reddish mouth. - Cowbirds: habits, photo of egg (Sialis.org)
- Cowbird Eggs: this information may help determine if a mystery egg in a bluebird nest came from a cowbird.
To control crawling insects after the first egg is laid, try:
- Remove old nests immediately after babies fledge, as detritus and feces may attract ants.
- Tanglefoot. Wrap green garden tape around
the mounting pole, right under the box, or UNDER the baffle and then apply the Tanglefoot
to the tape (put tape on tightly so ants can't crawl under it). When the Tanglefoot loses its effectiveness, just
cut the green tape off and remove it. Be careful not to put it where a bird could come into contact with it as it is sticky and will be almost impossible to remove! If you get
it on your clothing a solvent (e.g., GO-JO cream available at Sam's, or Citra-Solv) will remove
it. It may be available at a feedstore, nursery, or some hardware
stores such as Ace, True Value or Aubuchon, or can be purchased online. (If Tanglefoot does get on a bird, call a rehabber or use mineral oil to dilute the tanglefoot. Then use soap (Dawn liquid detergent) and WARM water. Around the eyes do the same but with a Q-tip. Rinse thoroughly)
- Dip Q-tips in an ant repellant called "Terro" and staple them to the outside bottom of the box, and tape a few to the pole.
- Grease (automotive or all purpose) is okay, but when the temperatures get hot the grease may run, whereas Tanglefoot will not. Vaseline or a mixture of turpentine and lithium grease may be painted in a 4" wide ring around the mounting pole (directly under the nestbox, or if there is one, under the baffle, to prevent blue feathers from coming into contact.) It will harden in the sun, to reapply twice during nesting season.
- Place a small moat around the bottom of the mounting pole (e.g., a "Bundt" style baking pan fit down over the pole filled with water.)
- ? in the household, a small bundle of crushed sage or crushed peppermint leaves deters ants. Try sprinkling a few under the nest?
Blowfly larvae suck the blood of nestlings. Check Blowfly Information and Research to learn about this parasite. This site has pictures of blowfly larvae at various stages of development. More pictures here: Ectoparasites.
Blowfly larvae seem more common when outdoor temperatures are warm, and on my trail near wetlands. Therefore, first nestings may be free of larvae. The adult blowfly lays its eggs in the nesting material. (Note: the larvae try to attack the adult birds, but the adult birds pick them off.) Usually by the time these whitish-gray larvae are clearly visible, they have already done much of their damage. A major infestation of blowfly larvae (>10 per chick) can be hazardous to baby birds because of the extent of blood loss when other nesting factors (low food supply, extra cold or extra hot, etc.) are extreme.
Control methods:
- The earlier these larvae are found and removed, the better for hatchlings and nestlings. Sometimes by gently rubbing through the 'dust' on the box floor under the nest, blowfly larvae can be felt before they can be seen (they really blend in with the dust).
- A major infestation of blowfly larvae (>10 per nestling) may require nest replacement. (Note: technically, this is illegal. But then, technically, most of what monitoring calls for is illegal.) This may need to be repeated for the same nesting as new blowfly eggs are laid and hatch in as little as 36-48 hours. Moving the baby birds from the infested nest to the replacement nest can be dangerous to the baby birds' soft bones, so do not "roll" them.
- Use a hardware cloth screen (3/8" square mesh [rabbit cage size] in a squared "U" shape or slid into slots in the insides of the box) to keep the nest about a half-inch off the box floor. Debate about these screens includes concerns that by the time the larvae are heavy enough to fall out of the nest and through the screen, they've done most of their damage to the baby birds. However, they do make it easier to sweep out larvae and will help keep the nest dry. You may want to put the screen in AFTER the nest is built to prevent pushing material down through it during nest construction.
- Low-level (0.03 - 0.1%) pyrethrin pesticide can be used under the nest. However, this is a toxin and is considered a last resort.
- Put crumpled bay leaves in the bottom of the box (I have no idea whether this works.)
Paper wasps are nasty buggers that seem to love to quickly build umbrella shaped nests in nestboxes, baffles, and feeders. If wasps move into a box, the bluebirds will abandon their nest--even if there are eggs or young. There are several techniques to keep paper wasps from building inside nestboxes, or underneath them (e.g. on a Peterson box). Some work better than others, and some work better with native vs. European paper wasps (Polistes dominulus). The introduced European paper wasp is yellow and black like a yellowjacket, and become active in mid-June, with cells facing outward vs. down. It becomes "imprinted" on a nest site, so just destroying the nest doesn't work.) To PREVENT Paper Wasp nest building:
- rubbing (or applying with an old paintbrush) a very thin layer of vaseline on
the interior ceiling and down sides about 1", then wiping off
excess with a paper towel (otherwise it could get on birds, especially if they are startled). Wooden boxes will absorb the vaseline, so reapply several times per season.
- In 2007, I have had good luck (less effective in 2008) deterring paperwasps in nestboxes using nursing pads (my husband calls them "boob leaker pads") injected with 2-3 drops of organic peppermint oil. The pads are then thumbtacked to the roof of the nestbox. I refresh the oil once a month. It has not deterred bluebirds or Tree Swallows from using the boxes. A few drops of all natural peppermint oil on a cotton ball thumbtacked to the roof would also probably work, although covering the roof with the pad also probably deters the wasps from nest building. (Just in case, avoid using peppermint oil in such as way as might result in direct contact with the bare skin of nestlings, as it could be an irritant.)
- Rubbing the ceiling and sides with unscented
Ivory soap or Fels Naptha soap. (If a bird nest is present, you might want to temporarily cover it to keep soap flakes out). You may have to do it several times a year. Fels-Naptha soap (available in laundry detergent section) also works. (If there is an active bird nest in the box, I lay a piece of paper towel on top of it so flakes don't get on the nest, just in case.)
- Rubbing the ceiling and sides with canning,
candle stump or crayon wax (e.g., common household paraffin - available in a box in the grocery store,
usually near baking items. One brand is Gulf Wax.) This may get messy in hot southern areas, and may attract bees. I found it was less effective than Ivory Soap.
- Spray the interior roof with a a natural pyrethrum forumulation - works for 2-4 weeks.
- Spray the interior and the bottoms of Peterson style boxes with pyrethrin-based caged bird spray (bottle says it's even safe to spray on live birds) available at pet stores.
- Some folks have had luck using Bag Balm like vaseline, but we don't know how the disinfectant in it (8-hydroxyquinoline sulfate) might affect baby birds, and there is real potential for any stray petroleum product to gum up feathers.
- gluing or stapling aluminum foil, plastic
used to create temporary storm windows, commercial plastic
food wrap, or plastic from milk jugs across the interior surface
- paint interior with LATEX paint or sand the inside top and paint it with several layers of a water-based urethane varnish. Some people
do not advocate using any kind of paint/stain inside boxes.
Don't choose this method while birds are nesting,
as it must dry completely before the box is used - to be on the safe side, let it cure for at least a week. Do NOT paint/varnish under the entrance hole as this could make it hard for fledglings to climb out.
- For underneath Peterson's, try crumpled up paper towel, plastic grocery bag, tin foil, or latex paint.
- Stapling plastic window screening materials over vent holes might help.
- If wasps are in an unoccupied box, put a clear plastic bag over the entire box and tape it to the pole, then crush the wasps the next day or spray the wasps with peppermint oil or a natural pyrethrum forumulation (permethrin is synthetic).
- Spraying cider vinegar on the box interior does not work.
- If you are allergic to wasp stings, use boxes with slot ventilation so you can see if there is a nest inside.
- Do NOT spray the box or baffles with PAM (nonstick cooking
spray). Wood may absorb it, plus (at least the store brand) it is uber sticky on baffles and gnats get stuck all over it.
European Paper wasps will build their nests on the sides, and that is harder to prevent. Squashing: A good thing to carry with you when you check on boxes is a spatula (egg turner), paint scraper or a "hive tool". Usually you have to kill the wasp to keep it from returning. It's best to squash in early morning when wasps are less active. You can also wrap a strip of duct tape around your hand, sticky side out and press it against the beginnings of any wasp nest in a box. The sticky holds the wasps and they cannot sting through the tape. Do not use insecticides. Note that native paper wasps (black and brown, with very little yellow. European versions look like yellow jackets) may be considered beneficial insects that some folks choose not to destroy. European Paper Wasps are more aggressive and likely to sting. Bring a sting kit along with you if you are squashing.
On occasion, bumblebees will
inhabit a nestbox (in particular in chickadee nests - another
reason to remove old nesting material.) One nontoxic approach
that might work is spraying the inside of the house with cider
vinegar (this kills wasps also). Mint spray may also work.
MITES
Mites are uncommon in bluebird nests, but are common in Tree Swallows (TRES) nests. Providing TRES with clean feathers for nesting can prevent mite infestations. This is probably unrealistic for large trails. In that case, try replacing the nest; or use a low-level (0.03 - 0.1%) of pyrethrin pesticide, under the nest (as a toxin, this is considered a last resort.) 1/4 teaspoon of all natural food grade (not swimming pool) diatomaceous earth underneath the nest might help - it dries mites out. Put it in a plastic bottle with a very small opening so you can squeeze it out - it comes out in a cloud of dust. If there are nestlings that are too young to move, place your hand or a paper towel over them during dusting.
CATS
Cats can jump at least 5 feet high. A large overhanging roof will help deter them for reaching into the box to remove eggs, nestlings and adults. Also see raccoons.
Nestboxes offered in any area that MAY have raccoons should be on baffled poles. See drawings and instructions for a stovepipe or PVC predator guard. Although no baffle is 100% guaranteed, this is a highly effective baffle and very simple to make: inexpensively! Raccoon Baffle. This same baffle is helpful against skunks and opossum as well. When fitted with hardware cloth (or other solid cap), it will also help against squirrels, chipmunks, mice, and rats, as long as those critters cannot otherwise jump to the box. Raccoons have been known to defeat metal cone guards on poles, even those that are 36" in diameter.
Another option is a Noel Guard. I think they should be put up after the first egg is laid to avoid scaring the birds away.
Snakes are common of predators on nestboxes. Because some snakes can rise up 3/4 of their own length, they often easily by-pass raccoon baffles. Some snakes are able to slither straight up vertical surfaces without difficulty. Keith Kridler says a rat snake or coachwhip snake can stand up two thirds of their body length and reach into a nestbox without touching the pole or guard. Each of these species commonly reach seven feet in length and can reach lengths over 9 feet.
There are some effective pole-mounted snake traps. All are lethal to the snake, unless watched constantly to immediately free the snake. These traps are usually lethal to a regulated snake species. However, most often, adult birds see a snake long before it is at the box (i.e. anywhere near the trap). If there are babies in the box, at the mere sighting of a snake, the adults will make extreme efforts to fledge the nestlings. If the nestlings are of any age past open-eyes they will make every effort to heed the adults' panic call. If they are not old enough, they will fledge prematurely and most often drop right to the ground into the snake's path. Keeping grass well trimmed within a large perimeter of the box might well be the best deterrent for snakes. However, that's piddlin' little protection against a snake. In any area prone to snakes, the monitor should always exercise care when opening a nestbox. To be 'greeted' by a coiled snake is an unnerving experience. Here are some methods that might work:
- Small-diameter, smooth poles help, like the 'three minute post'. Using 0.5" conduit instead of wood or larger diameter metal poles results in far fewer nests lost to predation. For folks with many nest- boxes on trails and a limited budget, more birds were fledged than if metal T-posts or U- posts or wooden posts are used. Polishing and greasing a narrow diameter pole works, too, but only if the pole is regularly cleaned and regreased before the old grease collects dust and/or hardens in the sun enough to allow the snake to crawl over it. It helps to rub the steel poles with fine steel wool. If you gently rub a silk handkerchief down the pipe and it snags on anything every 6", a snake can probably climb it.
- The 'Kingston Guard' (a stovepipe baffle) stops most snakes (other than rat snakes, which climb along the seam - see photo). It is the standard for predator protection many Bluebird societies.
- A 3' square piece of hardware cloth placed below the nestbox like a Kingston Guard.
- The 'Krueger Snake Trap' is also effective. Bird netting is both inexpensive and effective, especially when combined with a Kingston baffle.
Remove snakes that are caught - they will die, and the parents may abandon the nest if the snake remains. Also, having a snake in there may freak out the parents and result in premature fledging.
- Trim grass and weeds around poles boxes are mounted on, as snakes like cover.
- Charged electric fence wire alternated with ground wires surrounding the pole is perhaps the most effective but it's expensive, requires power near the poles, and isn't recommended if there are children around.
Other resources: North American Snake ID
SPIDERS
Spiders are sometimes found in nestboxes, and a few are venemous. Look before you reach inside! This information is from Keith Kridler, co-author of The Bluebird Monitor's Guide to Bluebirds and Other Small Cavity Nesters See info on spider ID and treatment for spider bites.
- The Brown Recluse spider is very dangerous to humans. They do NOT spin a sticky catch web for prey but prowl around in search of food. They are normally smaller than 1.5" across their legs and body. A single bite from them would kill a small baby bird. Their venom begins to dissolve soft tissue and flesh. Antibiotics areused to stop the wound growth.
- Black Widow Spiders are commonly found in nestboxes but they spin a very, sort of haphazard strong web of individual fibers that are "sticky" where they connect to the walls or bottom of a box where insects will walk into the base of the web. They prey mostly on crawling insects. Their venom affects the nervous system and will make a human sick, and may be lethal to a small bird.
Despite its reputation, it often attempts to escape rather than bite, unless it is guarding an egg mass or if it is cornered and pressed.
The Red Widow Spider is now found in Florida, an imported Australian cousin to our Black Widow. The Brown Widow is mottled brownish. All have the characteristic red hourglass shape on their abdomen.
- A funnel web spider often will use a nestbox. They are not dangerous and their web often plugs up the hole on the nestbox and resembles a dirty gray handkerchief spread outside the nestbox to catch insects falling through the air.
- Jumping Spiders are quite quite large (thumbnail-size) and look dangerous (almost tarantula) but are apparently harmless to both the birds and humans. They often have a small egg case that is thick and cobweb-like in a box corner or along the edge of the bird's nest.
According to the Bluebird Monitor's Handbook, the incubating female tries to keep the eggs at around 92-95 °F. Sometimes when it's really hot, the females don't sit on the eggs as much, or they fan the eggs with their wings, or the eggs hatch faster. On the other hand, they may sit on eggs/nestlings more often to draw heat away. If at all possible, the inside of the nestbox should not exceed 100 °F. Some research indicates that if temperatures outside are 100-104 °F, the percentage of eggs that hatch drop, and nestlings under nine days old can die. Wooden boxes apparently get hotter than PVC boxes. Ventilation holes are key. In hot climates, roofs should overhang the sides by at least 2" and 4" in the front. Also see Fawzi Emad's heat shield design and TBN Experiment by D. Shiels. Some people tie small umbrellas on the top of the box for shade. Others make a second 3/4" styrofoam roof (custom-cut) with push-pin spacers elevating the styrofoam from regular roof (works like a cooler) - holes are punched in styrofoam sides to allow tie-on with elastic. Nestboxes should be mounted where they will be shaded in the afternoon, and if possible to where prevailing winds, breezes will blow through from side to side to carry away summer heat.
HAZARDS FOR BLUEBIRD MONITORS
AVIAN (Bird) FLU
The highly pathogenic avian influenza (HPAI H5N1) virus has not been found in North America, it is not easily transmitted from birds to people, nor have there been any well-documented cases of transmission between wild birds and humans. So far, transmission is believed to have occurred from people handling infected poultry/poultry products.
It is safe to keep birding, to attract and feed birds in your yard, and to monitor nestboxes. In general, waterfowl and shorebirds seem to be most affected by outbreaks, rather than feeder birds such as songbirds, probably because the virus spreads from one bird to another most easily through water.
As always, to avoid contracting any illness from wild birds, The Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology recommends that you wash your hands thoroughly after handling bird feeders, bird nests, birdbaths, or water contaminated by bird feces. Using disposable gloves or double plastic bags to move a dead bird is a good idea. These precautions will help keep you safe against harmful germs including HPAI H5N1, should it arrive among our nesting birds.
See USGS precautions for those who handle birds.
Deer mice and several other common mouse species can carry Hantavirus Four Corners virus, which causes a rare but deadly pulmonary syndrome. Breathing in airborne particles contaminated with mouse droppings, urine or saliva can cause infection. The onset of HPS begins with a flu-like illness (see more details.) Approximately 60-70% of infected people will die! PRECAUTIONS: Before removing a mouse nest, use a spray bottle to thoroughly soak the nest and box (to control dust) with a 10% bleach solution (water if no bleach is available). After 15-20 minutes, while standing upwind/wearing a mask, use gloves or a plastic bag to remove the nest, and then sweep and scrape out the box. Wash your hands afterwards. Leave the box open for a day to air it out.
CDC Hanta Virus information.
LYME DISEASE
 Lyme disease is transmitted by tiny deer ticks. It is found in every state in the continental U.S., and is common in areas frequented by deer or mice, such as tall grass and forests. Protect yourself by wearing long, light colored pants tucked into your socks/boots, and spraying clothing and exposed skin with an insect repellent. See more information on this website about Lyme disease and bluebirding. The CDC website has excellent information on identification, prevention and treatment.
West Nile disease is killing birds. Believed to be spread by bites of infected mosquitoes and bird-to-bird contact, this virus is of concern to the birding world everywhere. People who develop high fever, confusion, muscle weakness or severe headaches should see a doctor right away. Keep up to date on the spread and what can be done. It is not common, resulting in about 111 deaths per year (a little higher than deaths from lightning strikes.) CDC West Nile Virus.
If you find an ill or injured bird (or other critter) it is crucial to the animal's survival that it be given to a licensed wildlife rehabilitator. It is not legal to keep and care for the animal unless you are a licensed rehabilitator. Find your closest rehabber now that handles songbirds - before the emergency occurs. Being prepared is especially important. Some rehabbers on these lists have had to close down due to lack of funding, so checking things out before the panic is crucial. See story of Mr. Troyer.
Any bird handled by a cat (may have missing or matted feathers) should be rescued immediately.
To capture a sick or injured songbird, use a barrier, lure it onto a porch or into a garage with food scattered on the ground, and then throw a light towel over it.
For transportation, put unfeathered nestlings in a small bowl lined with tissue, covered with a towel, and placed on a heating pad. For fledglings, put them in a ventilated shoebox lined with a paper towel, and keep them warm, away from people and pets.
Tips for interim baby bird care information are provided only as a temporary resource for care until the bird can be delivered to - or picked up by - a trained, licensed wildlife rehabilitator. Before rescuing a baby bird, make sure it is truly orphaned. Do not put anything in the baby's mouth or into the container.
- Observe the nest for 2 hours before rescuing. Parents may fly in and out of nest within seconds while feeding.
- If you find nestlings with little or no feathering, return them to the nest. Parents will not reject the babies just because you have touched them.
- Cold nestlings must be warmed before they are returned. Make a temporary nest with a small bowl lined with tissue, place the nestling inside, cover it lightly with a soft cloth, and place it on a heating pad set on low. When babies feel warm and are opening their mouths for food, return them to the nest.
- A feathered bird with short wings and short tail found on the ground is probably a fledgling. Parents will continue to care for them, so unless there are obvious injuries, leave the bird alone. If the bird is calling loudly with no parent responding, observe it for 2 hours before rescuing.
- If the bird does need to be rescued (it is clearly orphaned or is injured), bring it to a licensed wildlife rehabilitator as soon as possible. Put it in a small box lined with a soft towel and keep it warm.
- Do not attempt to raise a wild baby bird. Many are killed by good intentions and might have survived if brought to a trained professional. Under no circumstances try to make a pet out of a wild native bird. Under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act, it is illegal to posses a wild native bird (or their nests, eggs or young) without a permit.
- If you find an egg on the ground, it is unbroken and you know where the nest is and can safely reach it, you can try to gently place it back in the nest (eggs are very fragile.) If eggs are abandoned, it is not feasible to attempt to incubate them on your own. They must be maintained at an exact temperature, turned constantly, and young must be fed every 15-60 minutes with a specialized diet. (It is also illegal, see above.) If possible, the parents will re-start a nest elsewhere. Note: sometimes House Sparrows, House Wrens and other birds throw other birds' eggs out of nestboxes.
- If you have a widowed bluebird with nestlings, offering supplemental food (mealworms, raisins, suet, dogwood berries) may help. Bluebirds do have to be trained to come to a feeder. If it is a second or third brood, fledglings from a prior brood may help out. If a new female or male comes onto the scene, it is possible they may help or hurt the babies. Unhatched eggs may be abandoned, or a new nest built on top of them. See more info on feeding .
- More information:
SPRING AND SUMMER "BLUEBIRDING"
This topic is pretty much covered in all the books and websites. Here are some general reminders.
- Rain and high humidity cause wood to swell and shrink. In turn, that can cause wood to crack or roughen. Anyone with wooden boxes should routinely check the condition of the entrance hole to be sure cracks that can catch a blue leg) haven't formed or if the surface has become rough (extra wear on blue feathers). These problems should be quickly repaired, or the box-front replaced.
- If the unfortunate event of a nesting failure, save the nest IF it is in good shape. This nest could come in very handy to replace a wet or infested nest - just don't keep this nest in the house . in case it has bugs.
- Blues will likely 'appreciate' it if nestboxes and bird feeders aren't mounted in proximity to each other. Even birds that are no harm to blues could distress them just by being close during nesting.
- Provide fresh water year round.
When the bustle of nesting season passes, "empty nest syndrome" hits landlords like a brick! BUT fear not! There is still lots to do!
- Roosting: Prepare nestboxes for winter roosting. Particularly in northern states, blues may choose to roost in their summer nestbox. Some do not. It is best to leave boxes up all winter so they can be used for roosting, and also so you don't have to go out in January/February to put them back up before nesting starts. Prepping a box for winter roosting usually involves sealing up the ventilation holes (don't forget the floor). Duct tape on the OUTSIDE can do the trick nicely (if it sticks to the waterproofing). You can use rolled caulking (e.g. "Mortite") - again only on the outside of the box! You may also add an inch or so of SMALL woodchips (avoid sawdust and commercially sold cedar bedding, and do not put in large woodchips that might get stuck in the hole and trap a bird inside) or a layer of soft grass. Others line the floor with silver foil (insulates and seals), bringing it up to the front of the nestbox under the entrance hole, and then add some dry grass.
You can also put a 1/2" styrofoam, cut to fit, on the bottom of the nestbox. See some plans:
- Waterproofing: Late summer (after nesting season ends) or fall is a good time to do annual waterproofing of nestboxes, because you should do it when the box is not in use. Double check the caulking of the various seams of the box and re-caulk if needed before waterproofing.
- Icicle Prevention: If you're in a really cold climate, and the roof allows icicles to form in front of the entrance hole, birds could get trapped inside. To avoid this, mount the box so the box is tilted slightly to the side so water drains away from the entrance hole, or make boxes with a roof that is slanted so it drains to the side or the back.
- Repairs: If you opt to leave your boxes up year-round, take measurements of the various parts of your nestbox to have them handy for winter days of making repair parts. Sometimes wintering critters will chew or excavate your boxes resulting in springtime repairs being needed. By January (southern blues are real close to nesting), you should have ready various repair parts for your boxes - new interior wall liners might be needed if woodpeckers roosted. Replacement hole-guards might be needed. New box-fronts or hole repair pieces to 'fix' an entrance hole that may have been enlarged by squirrels, woodpeckers, mice, etc. By mid-winter, begin checking the fasteners that mount your boxes on their poles, to be sure none have broken, rusted, or worked loose. This can save a fallen box during nesting season.
- Take down or leave up various shade devices, unless you want to use them to shield against raging winter winds.
- Keep an eye out over the fall for when field grasses start dying - time to collect lots of soft dead grass for IN CASE replacement nests are needed next year.
- All winter take your preferred steps concerning House Sparrows if they are in your area.
- Feed: Offer suet (you'll have to train them first) when temperatures are below 40 degrees and insects are not active.
- Plant: Fall is a great time to plant trees, shrubs and vines that produce berries that will attract birds and help them survive the winter.
FEEDING
It is not "necessary" to offer mealworms to bluebirds.
However, in times of cold and/or prolonged-wet weather snaps
with a nest full of babies or if one of the adult birds is lost
during nesting, mealworms can make the difference in the survival
of the babies. It may also help keep bluebirds in your
area. It does get expensive though. Order 5 days ahead
of when you need them. See Sialis.org info on raising
mealworms, Fawzi
Emad's page for tips on how to store mealworms in the frig,
and his design for a starling-proof
feeder. Also see Sialis tips and DIY
feeder instruction. See list of online mealworm SUPPLIERS.
Bluebirds typically don't eat seeds. While bluebirds prefer insects, after
much persistence (like a couple of years) they sometimes sample
or even gobble up peanut butter mixtures. They may be more likely
to try it if it is next to mealworms, or during the winter. In
the meantime, these recipes will be adored by woodpeckers, chickadees,
titmice, juncos, cardinals, etc. See Recipes (some
of which bluebirds are known to eat.)
FEEDER PLANS (DIY)
- Jailhouse
feeder designed by Fawzi Emad to prevent starling entry
- Feeder
sketches by Linda Janilla Peterson
- Ketcham
Supply Corp - sell green and black coated wire 1.5".
Re: minimum quantities:
"We are happy to work with folks needing minimal amounts
of mesh for their private feeder projects. There are usually
two widths in stock here, 13 1/2 inch (9 mesh wide) and 24" (16
mesh wide). The 24 inch mesh has a heavier outside wire running
the length of the roll for a little extra strength. Your pricing
in $1 per square foot on either size roll, so the 13 1/2" is
$1.125 per running foot an the 24" is $2. There is a $10
minimum rolling shop and shearing dept charge. Orders requiring
numerous cuts would be of course a little more. You could pick
up or we can ship to you FOB New Bedford. Call (508) 997-4787
And we'd be happy to help you out." Bob Ketcham, 111 Myrtle
Street New Bedford, Massachusetts 02740
The purpose of putting leg-bands on birds is for research on subjects like migration patterns, nest site fidelity, survival, etc. Banding migratory birds is legal only with a permit from the US Fish and Wildlife Service, and there are different permits for songbirds, waterfowl, etc. Information on how to apply for a federal permit is found at Bird Banding Permits. Permits are difficult to obtain. You need a very specific purpose (e.g., avian research project) to get one. Some states also require a state permit. The major permit holders are educational facilities, state and federal agencies, and Monitoring Avian Productivity and Survivorship (MAPS) stations. If you're interested, find someone in your area (through a listserv or by contacting the MAPS Institute for Bird Populations) who bands, and offer to assist them, and learn the steps, considerations, and protocols.
Just a few for birds that may use nestboxes. A full list of alpha codes is available here. Another more complete list of 4 letter codes (for English common names) and 6 letter codes (for scientific names) is found at The Institute for Bird Populations.
Commonly used alpha codes for birds names have four letters. Generally, the rule for alpha codes for two word bird names is the first two letters of the first word followed by the first two letters of the second word - thus Eastern Bluebird = EABL, and PUrple MArtin = PUMA. See neat online bird identification guide.
Exceptions:
- When there are more than one species of bird with the same letters, they use the first 3 letters of the first word and the first letter only of the second word - thus TRUmpeter Swan = TRUS and Tree Swallow = TRES.
- Four word bird names use the first letter of first word, first letter of second word, and first two letters of third word. Another exception when all four words have same initials: BTNW = Black-throated Green Warbler, BTYW = Black-throated Gray Warbler.
- Subspecies: ETTI refers to the subspecies Eastern Tufted Titmouse. You really need to have the bird in hand to get to subspecies. If you just hear the titmouse in the tree or see it at the feeder, it's a TUTI, a regular Tufted Titmouse. If you just hear a flicker, it's a NOFL, a Northern Flicker. If you can see the color on the wings, you can call it a Red- or Yellow-shafted Flicker, RSFL or YSFL.
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